Friday, 15 May 2015

Inspiration: Atbin Eslami's Video Bio



Such a simple idea, and not so difficult to do—unless you count all of the self-inspection it will require. Iranian-born (now in Dubai) photographer Atbin Eslami's video-bio of herself first made me think, "that's really cool."

And second, "Why haven't I done that?"
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Here's the video, done mostly with stills and voice-overs. There is a little 2nd-person video, too, but nothing technically fancy. So it is something that many photographers could create themselves as far as degree of difficulty is concerned.

Eslami also includes a musical spine underneath, which adds cohesion and helps to evoke a sense of mystery. It's atypical, beautiful and compelling.

I have seen interviews of photographers done in a similar, if more structured, fashion. The agency Redux did a series on their shooters and we featured the one on Kevin Cooley a few years back.

But are there other self-produced video bios/art flicks out there like Eslami's? Or is she creating a new genre as she goes? Either way, I loved this and felt that I got a strong sense of who she is both as a person and a photographer.

If you know of others like this, please give me a shout on Twitter at @Strobist. If they are particularly good I will echo them here.
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And obviously, if the video above tweaks your interest pay a visit to Atbin Eslami's website to see more of her work.



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The Traveling Photographer_PARIS Has Posted



Paris, the latest installment in The Traveling Photographer series, has just posted to Lynda.com. Photographed this past May, the hour-long episode includes lots of practical, real-world advice for anyone who may be considering traveling to Paris with their camera.



In addition to all of the city-specific travel advice, much of the episode explains how to make the most of your time there as a photographer. There are segments on where to go to get the best cityscapes, street shooting and even a section on shooting in Paris through a specially adapted toy camera lens.



If a trip to Paris is in your future (or you are just open to being talked into the idea) you'll find this episode of The Traveling Photographer to be time well spent.

Like the rest of the Traveling Photographer series, the Paris episode is available here on Lynda.com. You can find out more about the series itself in this earlier post.
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More photos from this episode:











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On Assignment: Lighting Like Leo



Of all of the wonderful things that have happened since I began writing Strobist eight years ago, certainly the best is the steady parade of creative people I have met as a result. And few are more talented (or insan motivated) than London-based photographer Drew Gardner.

We grew up in the same era, both working for newspapers in our respective cities. We left the papers and graduated to second careers. Drew moved onto a mix of editorial, commercial and art photography. And I, well, sometimes I'm not sure how exactly to describe what it is that I do.

So it was with equal parts curiosity and abject fear that I accepted his offer to come to London to be the lighting advisor for what would be the culmination of his Descendants photo series.

Drew has for several years been recreating famous paintings as photographs, featuring the descendants of the original subjects. He photographs them meticulously in the same style and setting as their pigmented predecessors. In the context of this series, finding a descendant of the enigmatic subject of the Mona Lisa would certainly be his biggest get. And he was creating a documentary film around the making of that photograph.

To be involved in this project would be an absolute treat, as much for the lighting as for the front-row seat as a voyeur.

Two things in play here: one is the specific project itself, in which I am very interested. But even more, I am always interested to watch how a motivated photographer assumes the role of water finding downhill to pull off a unique and wonderful photo. And that is exactly what this documentary will allow its viewers to do.

Put differently, even if you have no interest in the Mona Lisa (setting aside the fact that it is likely the most famous portrait ever) just watching the process is a wonderful education.

Meeting the Mona Lisa has debuted in Italy (naturally) and continues to run on Sky Arte Italia. It whas been dubbed into Italian (me included) and I am kinda excited to see that, too, actually. Do they just change the words or do they CGI my waving arms? (Hi, Sara!)

Now that it is out, I thought it'd be cool to write about deconstructing Leo's painterly light into that of a photograph.
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Okay, so let's start this off by establishing what lying cheating liars painters are—and always have been.

As photographers (as opposed to Photoshop jockeys) we are pretty much bound by the laws of physics. Painters are not. In fact, one of the law-breaking quirks of the Mona Lisa is the inconsistency of the background.

Look at it. It doesn't add up, left to right. If you asked Mona to move, it couldn't even reconcile. In other words, Leo is just making shit up wholesale. And it is within that illegal context that I first began to study the light.

Which is also when I realized that I really maybe sleep on it more before accepting a project just because it sounded super-interesting.

So, the light. Let's reverse this together, shall we?

It's a smallish-but-soft light source. It's a little beyond right on her nose (a little further back on camera left, a little high.) Thus the shadow.

It's a classic, Rembrandt key light, except that Rembrandt won't be born for another hundred years after Mona's completion. Anyway, normal portrait light, right? Easy-peasy.

Yeah? Now look at her hands.





Pleeenty of detail, even right up under the fingertips of that top hand, even on the under-surfaces curled up against the dark chair.

Cheater.

Now look at the shadow side of her face.



The diffused highlight-to-shadow transition looks right for a medium-ish soft box. But there's detail everywhere. Even up under her camera-right hair, which would out of the reach of even a reflector.

Cheeeeeater.
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As photographers, we lose many of the advantages afforded to painters. We grab the image in a fraction of a second. Painters work over the course of many days. Weeks. Months.

So even if painters are being faithful to the light, the light is going to change over time. We don't get to use that time-axis to smooth out inconvenient physics.

The Mona Lisa descendant would be photographed onsite in Italy, later. My job was to help to direct the pre-lighting session in London—to solve the lighting problems and get Drew in the ballpark before he traveled to Italy to make the final photo.

We had lots of lights (Elinchroms) and plenty of mods at our disposal. As you can see in the screen grab above, those choices included a big Octa, large additive and subtractive flats, a tri-flector, and a 6x8-foot Sunbounce ⅔-stop scrim. At least I think it was a ⅔ stop, as you could pretty much see through it. (Which got me thinking...)

There was also, thankfully, a medium-sized soft box, which is not visible in this frame. That would be important, as the key light absolutely bore that signature as a base before all of the cheating started.

The problem was all of the extra legibility built into the painting.

The last thing I wanted to do was to use multiple light sources. For one thing, Leo didn't use them. (He only had a single AlienBees 400, if I remember correctly.) So multiple sources would only complicate things. (Hey, is that a ring-fill in Mona's eye, hmm?)



So it was decided that we should do it with one light. Da Vinci typically painted with window light, which approximated a medium soft box. So that reinforced that we should choose the box as our light source.

Drew (seen at left, above) and I looked at different ways to create fill. In back are Jarek Wieczorkiewicz (himself a fantastic photographer), center left, serving as a digital tech, and model Jay Jessop, who would stand in as Mona for the day. (Nice thing to have on one's resumé as a model, to be sure.)

We knew we would need a reflector on the camera right. One large flat should cover that. But how to fill all of the "illegal" (with regards to physics) areas: hands, under Jay's hair, etc.?

(Cheater.)



We thought about the tri-flector, seen above. It would technically work, but would totally show up in Jay's eyes. She'd look more like Model Mayhem Mona. Not cool.

That's when we got the idea to use the huge scrim to stretch and blend that one medium soft box from one light source into two, very different light sources. And if we did it right, we'd get both the shape of light and the full detail that we were looking for.



Here's our solution, such as it was. Looking through the scrim tells you everything you'll need to know about what it will do to the light.

Look at Jay. You can easily see her, but she is also diffused. Which is exactly what we want to happen to our light source, too.

Picture yourself as Jay, looking up at the soft box. You can see it as a small-medium light source. So it is gonna do its small soft box thing. And there's your key light.

But by adding the scrim, you diffuse some of that light and can pull it to wherever you want. Which in our case, is right next to the camera. And because Sunbounce makes several different scrim thicknesses, in theory we could have chosen exactly what percentage of that soft box light to stretch.

But as it happens, we were lucky and our scrim density was pretty close to ideal. The point is, there are valid reasons people shell out for Sunbounce gear instead of using a random bed sheet.

So to pull that light all of the way over to her hands and up under her hair. Drew would shoot from exactly at the right edge of the scrim. In many ways, the right end of the scrim would approximate what a soft, on-axis fill would do. Without leaving a signature, because it is so big.

Remember your rules for specular light. That works for speculars in eyes, too: big source = low-intensity specular highlight.

And the beauty of this is that it was inspired by one of Leo's go-to techniques, which was to use smoke in the sitting room to diffuse light and form. Drew would end up using smoke (cinematic fog, actually) in combination with this lighting setup for the final photo in Italy.

So let's snap a frame and see what our first test shot looks like:



Win. There's our medium soft light source, leaving its signature. But we also have legibility everywhere we need it. Shadow-side face, of course. But more important, look at the detail in the hands. This was our main problem to solve—to get a painterly light all around her hands while keeping the right feel on her face.

There would still much more to do to pull off the final photo. In addition to the actual subject, Drew would need the background, the chair, the dress, etc. But—BUT—with the first test frame we all happily exhaled. The scrimmed soft box was absolutely the path Drew would need to solve Leo's light.

Jay sat in with a perfunctory background so Drew could scale the photo and get us a little closer to what the final image would look like:



Yep, it'll work. But the rest of it would be up to Drew and the other people who would ultimately contribute to the final photograph.
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In the following months Drew would face curve ball after curve ball to make the photo happen. (It's always the stuff you don't expect.) But in the end, he pulled it off and did so brilliantly.

Here's the extended trailer for the documentary itself (in English!) and for those of you in Italy, keep an eye on Sky Arte Italia for local run times.





Drew teases the final image in the trailer, but you can see it (and much more about the process) here.

Also, while you are at his site, take a moment to look at his latest project: a series of remarkable 360-degree images. Mr. Gardner never ceases to amaze.
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On Assignment: Lighting Like Leo is #169 in the long-running On Assignment series, which can be found here.

Discussion? Questions? Via Twitter, use hashtag #StrOA169—and add "@Strobist" at the end of the tweet if is important that I see it.



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Now Live on Lynda.com: The Traveling Photographer_LONDON



For much of 2014, I have been on the road for Lynda.com, producing the series, The Traveling Photographer. The latest episode, on London, has just posted. London is an amazing city, and I think this episode is our best to date.

Hard to believe it, but we have now logged over 50,000 miles on this journey. In addition to Hong Kong, Dubai, Paris and London, we have just finished filming the New York City segment, which will be published soon.

For more information about the entire series, see this earlier post.



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Traveling Photographer_NYC has Posted



For those of you following along with The Traveling Photographer series, Lynda has just posted the New York City episode.

This is a city I have visited many times, so we tried to distill this visit down to a small collection of very cool photo experiences. I hope you like it.

Lastly, NYC completes the series—for now, anyway. Whether or not it continues will be determined solely by how many views it gets. So thanks in advance for your support.

-DH



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On Assignment: I Got Rhythm



I have been photographing dancers for several years now as part of my affiliation with the local arts council. The results were catch-as-catch-can, mostly because of the limitations of flash recycle time, timing, and my not really knowing what to expect from them nor when to expect it.

But a little trick I tried last week changed everything.


First, The Light

Because this is a lighting site, let's hit the lumens first so the people who care about nothing else can leave early.

We spent an afternoon shooting head shots, mood/environment shots and dancing shots in color and BW. I knew I would need more power than my speedlights could offer, mostly because of the working distances for the light.

So I loaded up the cart, which always elicits a bit of a sigh:



Among that pile of stuff on the Rock n' Roller cart is three Einstein 640 monoblocs and a total of four soft light sources. (Two 30x60" soft boxes and two ~1x3' strips.)

The big boxes were chosen because I wanted at least some softness to the light at decent working distances. The distance, in turn, being chosen to give her consistant light levels over a semi-large working area. (If this doesn't make sense to you, refer to Lighting 102: Distance.)

The lighting in the frame at top is cross light on the 45's with an on-axis(-ish) fill.

Here's a top view of the lighting diagram:



The key light is 30x60" soft box (by Paul Buff, here) about 20 feet up and over to camera left. It is denoted as "A" on the diagram. It is racked up as high as I can get it with a (heavily sandbagged) C-Stand.

C-stands are heavy and unweildy, but also incredibly useful and damn-near indestructable. With the attached arm I can rack this one up to over 12 feet high. Which is very important to establish the vertical component of the light, being so far away. Especially considering she is leaping during the photo.

So that's my key light. Since she is wearing black and the background is also black, the separation light becomes very important. That is one of my smaller strip boxes, about 20 feet back and over to camera right. This is high(-ish) on an 8-foot stand. Not as high as the key. I want it to separate her entire camera-right side, not just the top surfaces.

This light, denoted as "B" above, gets the strip light because I want to save the other big sift box for my fill. It is also running a little hotter than I would normally want as a separation light, owing to the black-on-black tones. There's even some flare happening. I liked it, so I kept it rather than gobo'ing the camera.

Finally, the fill. This is important because I am working many stops above the ambient. So there will be nothing happening in the shadows without at least some fill light. Normally I might put the big fill light right behind me, or directly to the side of me opposite the key. But in this case my key is all coming from up high, so I put my fill on the ground to push up against and into the shadows left by the vertical component of the key. Literally, the big fill soft box (denoted as "C" above) is laying on the ground right below/infront of the camera.

How powerful/what ratio for the fill? Couldn't tell you. I just set my key, then my separation, then dialed up the fill until the shadows looked right. We were cycling through situations very quickly. But I am guessing 2 1/2 stops or so below the key.

So that is a fairly detailed look at the lighting, with details specific to this situation. But long story short, it's basically crosslight on the 45's with on-axis fill.
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Can't Hit For Average

Okay, so she is dancing and I am shooting. We have music playing over a set of portable speakers because, duh. Seriously, you should always have a set of portables or a Bluetooth speaker when you shoot people. Worst case, you have some ambient background going. Best case, they plug in their own device and you are shooting them in the warm coccoon of their own favorite music. No-brainer.

So she is dancing, and I am shooting—poorly. I don't know what she is going to do, how it is going to develop, or when. And because of the flashes, I am in single-frame mode. No spray and pray. So I am early, late, missed completely—just a damned impressive fumbling klutz on timing.

And this has been a problem a lot for me when shooting dancers. Dancing ain't my thing. I am not a dancer. So I miss a lot.

And worse, you can quickly burn out a dancer by missing a kinetic move for a while as you dial in your timing. So by the time you get what she's doing, she is shot. Not good.


Then a Light Bulb Goes Off

Basically, I do not know what it happening until I see it. And then it is too late. I will never get peak action, which is kinda critical on a leap, right? But we have music, which means we have a shared timing structure.

So we ditched everything she was doing for the moment, except for this leap. And both of us being familiar with music structure, we mapped out exactly when I would hit the shutter release.

Whatever she wanted me to get, all she had to to was to hit the physical mark (a small taped spot area on the floor) and the timing mark (the downbeat of every fourth measure). And there was a 100% chance I would grab it, with near perfect timing.

It was like, "CLICK, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. REST, two, three, four, five, six, seven eight. CLICK, two, three ..... yada, yada."

And I'm literally shouting this out loud, over the music. There was zero confusion as to when she would peak, and when I would shoot.

Instant sync. Our batting average went from crap to perfect in a heartbeat. See for yourself. These are sequential pics, shot in single-frame mode because of the flash recycling times:



We went from hopelessly inefficient to having the luxury of nailing the timing on every single shot. I didn't need to know what she was gonna do. Because I knew exactly where and when it would happen. I could even take into account the shutter lag on my camera (a Fuji X-E2 and a 35mm normal lens, at ~f/5.6) and expose each shot exactly on the downbeat. Which was when she was timing her peak.

It was sublime. Timing issues solved, we could now concentrate on presence, facial expression, where Maddie would be looking, etc. So, not only was our timing efficiency near-perfect, but everything else was much-improved, too.

I doubt I'll ever shoot anyone doing anything that involves repetitive motion and timing again without using this technique.
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On Assignment: I Got Rhythm is #170 in the long-running On Assignment series, which can be found here.

Discussion? Questions? Via Twitter, use hashtag #StrOA170—and add "@Strobist" at the end of the tweet if is important that I see it.



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Thursday, 14 May 2015

Your Basic Lighting Kit: A Spin Around the Block



So you bit the bullet and spent ~$100 for the stuff needed to turn your hot shoe flash into a mini portable studio lighting system. What do you with the box of stuff the UPS guy just dropped onto your dorstep? Where do you start?

That is exactly the gap we explore whenever I teach a beginner's lighting class. So today we are going to walk through a "first steps" exercise.


I Have This Box of New Lighting Stuff...

I'm assuming your basic lighting kit has a light stand, an umbrella, an umbrella stand adapter and some way to sync your camera. This little newb exercise is adapted from a class I teach at Gulf Photo Plus in Dubai every year, and it is designed for complete beginners. So if that is you, you're in the right place.

We're going to start with something very simple: an all-flash umbrella portrait. No ambient (i.e., continuous) light, just flash. This is good, as there is only one thing to worry about.

To that end, we'll be working indoors with a simple plain background. We used medium gray paper, as you can see above. I am also switching the camera to shoot black and white, so we can just concentrate on light and form without the distraction of color.


First, We'll Kill the Ambient Light

Every time you take a flash photo, you are taking two photos at once: an ambient photo overlaid onto a flash photo. It's all light, and it is all cumulative in your exposure. To kill the ambient light portion of the photo (and make things easier for you) we'll just dial in our exposure so the ambient portion of the photo will be black (or near to it.)

Set your ISO to something moderate, say ISO 200. Now, close down your shutter speed until you are at your maximum sync speed. It should be marked—maybe with an "X"—and will likely be 1/250th or 1/200th or 1/180th. If you are not sure what your maximum sync speed on your camera is, consult your manual or ask someone who is familiar with your camera.

So, the ISO and shutter speed setting is designed to get rid of a lot of ambient light. Now let's close down the aperture to, oh, say f/8. In a normal room, ISO 200 at (or near) 1/180th and f/8 is going to make a dark available light photo. If not black, then very dark. And that's fine.

Now, let's add our flash to that, knowing it will likely be the only thing influencing your image.


Now Let's Add Some Flash

We are going to use Tarek, one of my students on whom I quickly demo'd this exercise, as our subject. We are literally going to take a walk around his head with our light and just see what happens.

Also, these are straight out of the camera. If you look, you'll notice a blemish on the background paper that is not even getting cloned out. The exposures are what they are. I am purposefully not correcting them to illustrate that, as long as you don't change your distances very much, your exposures should be fine from setup to setup.
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Let's mount our flash in our shoot-through umbrella. Which is itself mounted to your light stand (via the umbrella swivel adapter). This combo pretty much allows you to position your light source wherever you want in 3-D space. Next, connect the flash to your camera via either a sync cord or remote trigger. Now, when you fire your camera, your (off-camera) flash will also fire.

Set your flash to manual, at 1/8 power. Set the "zoom" setting (on your flash) to 50mm or 35mm to fill the umbrella without the raw light spraying past the edges. Put your umbrella about 45 degrees up and over to the left (that is the side I chose, but it's arbitrary) with the umbrella front surface at about three feet away from your subject.

Take a test shot. If it is too bright, dial down the power level of your flash. (Like, to 1/16th or 1/32 power or some setting in between.) Or vice versa. When you get your flash exposure (literally) dialed in, your photo should look something like this:



Is this awesome or what? We literally just started and we already have a classic 45/45 (45 degrees up and 45 degrees over) B&W portrait. Simple, and classic. When is the last time your flash made someone look this cool? Probably never—unless you have prevously gotten it off of your camera.

If you have a weird, umbrella-edge-shaped shadow on the wall, your raw flash light may be spilling past the edge of the umbrella. In that case, zoom in the flash a little bit or choke up the umbrella shaft on the swivel adapter and fix it. Or maybe even just rotate your umbrella a tad toward the wall. You'll figure it out.

So, look at the shape and character the 45/45 (up and over) light gives to a face. Let's play with that some.

We are going to move the light around Tarek's head a bit. If we keep our distance the same, our exposure will be the same. If we move closer with the flash, it will be brighter on him. So we'll just remove some power from the flash at the manual power setting (as we did if your flash was too bright.) Or vice versa if we move the flash further away. Just try it and see. It is less like math and more like cooking.


Now Let's Move That Light Around

Let's reposition our flash until it is firing right over the head and shoulders of the photographer. So it will be on-axis with the subject, but "up" a little bit:



The shadows are different. There is more revealed detail in the full face. It's a different mood. There is now a tell-tale butterfly-shaped shadow under Tarek's nose. Which is why on-axis (but "up higher") light is often called "butterfly lighting."

This is fun, no? Let's keep going.

Drop the light down a little, so your head and shoulders are basically in front of bottom of the umbrella. The light is wrapping around you and you are pretty much lighting your subject on-axis.

Now his face (and the photo) looks different yet again:



Okay, now let's play with distance. Go back to your previous 45/45 positiion (up and over) and move that light in reeeeally close. Take an exposure test. Too bright, right? You'll have to dial the power of the flash down a bit to get your proper exposure back.



See how the light looks bigger, softer? That's because it is much closer to your subject's face, and appears to him to be bigger. (That's what counts with lighting.)

Okay, enough with this typical flattering light. Let's amp up the character aspect a bit. And this is what I loooove about lighting. You are in control.

Let's bring our light around to camera left (Tarek's right) for a moody profile shot. If you have changed your distance, you'll have to readjust your flash power to get a proper exposure. Or even if you have not changed your distance, you'll often find lighting a person in profile is somehow more efficient (light skims off of them very efficiently) and you have to drop your flash exposure anyway.



Oh that looks cool. Tarek in contemplation. Mr. Deep Thought.

Let's push it further around him to our left. Now the light is actually a little behind him, to camera left. So we call more attention to his face:



Has more of an emotional feel to it, maybe. Okay, let's drop that baby down a bit, still staying at camera left:



Okay, this is more Tarek the Homicide Detective in the crime drama, right? Same room, same guy, same light, same umbrella—we literally just dropped the light down two feet. I love this stuff.

Let's go the other way. Grab a friend and have them suspend that umbrella (just hold the stand, it's not hard) up over Tarek's head. Point that umbrella straight down and see what happens.



Hmm. If the previous shot was Homicide Detective, this may be trending a little toward the criminal in that same movie, right? Let's walk that light a little more to the right (still up top, tho) and have Tarek throw us a look over his shoulder.



Oh yeah, definitely a criminal look now. Don't mess with top-lit, glancing-over-the-shoulder Tarek. He'd surely kill you as soon as look at you.
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So Little Gear, So Much Cool

Are you surprised at how easy (and cheap!) it is to take the first steps into creating beautifully lit photos? Most people are, when they try it for the first time.

I love this stuff. Always have, since I started doing it over 25 years ago. And it is really easy to learn, but you gotta actually physically do it. I can explain to you how to ride a bicycle, but until you get on one and actually do it, you won't know how.



And that's exactly what these guys are doing here. And every single one of them was coming up with photos just like the ones above in relatively short order. Just by playing around.

And that is the secret: you gotta actually do it. You gotta play. You gotta experiment. But if you are willing to do that, you'll learn this stuff quickly.

Now let's make this a little trickier. Let's combine our flash with some ambient light...


Next: Balancing Flash and Ambient Light. Pt. 1


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